Trip Report: Glacier National Park - Huckleberry Mtn & Piegan Pass

Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

The aptly named Huckleberry Mountain is famous for the huckleberry bushes found along its trails. Unfortunately, besides hungry hikers, bears also frequent this area. So much so that, Backpacker Magazine named this hike one of America's 10 most dangerous hikes ( October 2008).

For us, fortunately, the hike was an uneventful, unending, ascent which culminated in a great view and an even better Huckleberry cobbler at dinner.

the trail to the summit (as seen from Huckleberry Mtn's summit)

Ptarmigan on the Huckleberry summit

The next day was the "worst" day of the trip; the one day where the weather didn't cooperate. The plan was to hike Piegan Pass and learn about animal tracking, however we had to truncate the hike due to the weather (rock scrambling + rain = trouble).

Fortunately, damp ground makes animal tracking much easier, so the guide was able to easily show us and challenge us to identify tracks.

Midway into the hike, we happened upon a couple from Seattle heading down the trail. They had found bear scat and, not knowing how recent or whether it was from a Grizzly or Black bear, decided to retreat.

Our guide offered to help them identify it, and after a few minutes of hiking, we were all gathered around the bear droppings.

The guide went through how to differentiate bear scat (large volume, like a gallon, is generally Grizzly), how to avoid surprising bears (keep talking to each other or yourself), and why they needn't worry today (you have bear spray and the wind at your back, so your scent will prevent you from startling the bear).

Shortly after this lesson, the weather turned for the worst and we voted to abandon the hike. On the return trip, however, we spotted a goat over a mile away

Can you spot the goat? (click for zoomed image)

In the end, the decision was a very good one. Despite the weather initially clearing, as we drove past Logan Pass this was the sight we were greeted with.

Jammers in the fog at Logan Pass

Trip Report: Glacier National Park - Logan Pass

Every year the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) working in conjunction with The Glacier Institute organizes a major excursion to Glacier National Park in Montana.

The tone of the excursion was set pretty early. After our welcome dinner, the manager of the Glacier Institute's Field Camp took us on a short hike around the camp. Not ten minutes into the hike, we happen upon a young Black bear.

We were walking in tall grass between the Flathead river and a road; we had just stopped to see if there were any coyotes among the horses in an opposite field, when a large four legged animal jumped up and ran through the grass, not 20 feet from us.

It wasn't until the animal stopped running, and stood on its hind legs that it became obvious (to those bear neophytes in the group, myself included) the large animal was a Black Bear. The bear stared at us for a little bit, before running off (encouraged by the noise the guide was making).

Not five hours into our trip and we had our first large animal sighting. The encounter changed the group somewhat. It is something to be told to be "bear aware." It is quite something else to actually have an encounter. The later guarantees you will take any bear tips very seriously.

The next day, we headed out early, for our "real" introduction to the park at Logan Pass.

Logan Pass sits on the Continental Divide and is the stopping point for most visitors traversing the park by car.

Two trails originate from this Pass, the southbound Hidden Lake trail and the northbound Highline trail. We started the day by heading south to see the Hidden Lake.

Hidden Lake

Almost immediately we were beset by wildlife: Goats grazing, Long Horned Sheep relaxing, and Pika foraging.

Wild Goat "admiring" the trail's flowers

On the Highline trail, in contrast, there were fewer animals to be seen; however a chance sighting of a Golden Eagle (and the view) made the trek immanently worth while.

Golden Eagle

The view from the Highline Trail

I had signed onto this trip to just see Glacier National Park and maybe some wildlife. In the first two days this trip exceeded all of my expectations.

Trip Report: White Mountains, NH - Mt. Washington & Mt. Monroe

The hike up Ammonoosuc Trail was surprisingly easy. I had read stories of how Mt. Washington was tough, how it was more like a western (Rocky) mountain. However, on Ammonoosuc I saw, or felt, none of this.

At the Lake of the Clouds hut, I was feeling so strong, so confident, that I turned away from Mt. Washington and climbed to the summit of Mt. Monroe.

Lake of the Clouds hut and Mt. Washington, as seen from the side of Mt. Monroe.

The first thing that greats hikers, as they leave the Lake of the Clouds hut towards Washington, is a weather beaten warning sign: "STOP: The area ahead has the worst weather in America. Many have died there from exposure, even in the summer. Turn back now if the weather is bad."

The aforementioned warning

one of the Lakes of the Clouds

On the lower steps of Washington, there was a camaraderie amongst us hikers; we chatted, we joked, we laughed together. However as the final mile ground us down with its continuous, demoralizing, unending ascent, we withdrew, one-by-one, into that quiet mental place all athletes know. That place where your mind is clear, pain is ignored, and all that matters is the lifting of the left foot, followed by the right, and repeated ad infinitum.

All that mental stillness is broken by the bustle at the summit. Visitors who drove, or took the Cog Railroad up the mountain, rush around from one side to the next, children screaming or squealing in delight.

I don't want to give the wrong impression, although it was a bit of a shock, the summit experience was not bad. I've been on summits (without roads) that were far more crowded and less personable. Everyone at the top was respectful of the hikers, so much so that one visitor stopped me to congratulate me.

Mt. Washington Observatory

Trail leaving Mt. Washington

From the naturalists and the family celebrating their patriarchs 60th birthday, to the waterfalls and pools dotting Ammonoosuc, and the birds and other wildlife around Jewel Trail, it was a great day of hiking.

Distance: 9.1 miles
Time: 7 hours 40 minutes
AMC 4k peaks: Mt. Monroe, Mt. Washington

Trip Report: Lost Dutchman State Park

Like Red Rock State Park, Lost Dutchman State Park is slated to close in June in an effort to alleviate Arizona's budget issues.

Morning on the Siphon Draw

The majority of the park's visitors focus on the Siphon Draw Trail. In spring, the trail is awash in a sea of color as flowers scream for attention. And in the Basin, visitors are rewarded with a small desert waterfall.

The top of The Flatiron

Most hikers, however, do not complete the whole trail, which ultimately ends 4861ft above sea level at the top of The Flatiron.

In the two miles from the trailhead to the Basin, hikers gain a little over 1000ft in elevation. To reach the top of The Flatiron, you must gain 1760ft in one mile.

Looking down on/from Siphon Draw

The first time I visited Lost Dutchman State Park, I (wisely) decided to save The Flatiron for another visit. At that point in the day, I had hiked all the other trails in the park and guessed Siphon Draw's final mile wasn't going to be trivial.

My Left Foot

After reaching the top of The Flatiron, I am satisfied with my earlier decision: This is not an easy hike.

Throughout the ascent you need to be very aware of your feet, and confident in their placement. To this end, my choice of footwear helped immensely.

Vibram's FiveFingers KSO Treks are a "shoe" designed to give you all the benefits of barefoot running, walking, and hiking with the protection you expect from footwear. The Treks, specifically, are designed to handle the harshest trails.

These shoes allowed me to easily climb the toughest parts of the trail; I could put all my weight on my toes and feel the stability of my foothold. I could not imagine doing this hike without that feedback.

Superstition Mountains as seen from Discovery Trail

In the end, hiking to the top of The Flatiron is difficult, but it is also very rewarding. If you have the time and physical fitness, it is one you should attempt before this park closes in June.

Distance: 6.6 miles
Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
Peaks: The Flatiron, Superstition Mountains (4861 ft)

Trip Report: Red Rock State Park

In an effort to close a massive budget shortfall, Arizona has decided to close all but nine of their state parks. Red Rock State Park, unfortunately, is one of those on the wrong side of that equation.

Without a doubt, this was the best State Park I have ever visited. The facilities were extremely well maintained; the Rangers were friendly and extremely helpful. Every trail was very clearly marked with conspicuous signs, as well as "you are here" maps. All things you look for when taking a family hiking.

And yet, in spite of this, I met very few people on the trails. A group of bird watchers mulling around Oak Creek and a solitary retiree on the Coyote Ridge Trail were the only other people I saw in the morning. By the end of the day, I would cross paths with only six other groups.

This meant the trail was generally devoid of human noise; in fact in most cases the only noise was that of the creek. Without the chirping of birds, or rusting of squirrels, it is easy to forget you are in a wild habitat.

On Eagle's Nest Trail, just after leaving the Coyote Ridge, I was reminded of this when I accidentally startled a pair of Javelina. Although I came within 10 feet of a mother and her child, the first hint I had of their presence was when the mother snarled and thundered away, her offspring in close pursuit.

More pictures on my Google+ site.

All in all I had a great time, and am saddened to see the closure of such a great park. If you have the means, I strongly suggest visiting the park before it closes in June of 2010.

View on Google Maps.

Distance: 5.6 miles
Time: 3 hours 20 minutes